I met Ben at our recent pop-up party, and liked what he was wearing (first outfit below). We got to talking and I discovered his interesting background – always good, as I’d like these profiles to explore different types of PS reader – and his pure enthusiasm for crafted menswear. He put me to shame with his knowledge of brands and general happenings.
Hopefully this interview gets that across, as well as Ben’s appreciation for the people who make all these things we love. I’ve never heard someone talk so passionately about how that makes menswear an enjoyable place to be.
Outfit 1
- Cap – Cotton/linen indigo from HW Dog
- Rollneck – North Sea Clothing submariner
- Jacket – Portuguese Flannel (customised)
- T-shirt – Tezomeya
- Belt – Indigofera, black bridle leather
- Jeans – Oni, 200zr
- Shoes – Paraboot, Michael in green suede (image lower down)
- Bag – Charlie Borrow
- Pocket knife – Victorinox Swiss Army Knife with added pocket clip
- Pen – Brass Fischer space pen
- Cardholder – Shinki shell cordovan in citrus
What do you do Ben?
I’m a window cleaner mostly. I’m based in Ipswich and I have a little business there I’ve developed in recent years, having initially taken over my brother’s business.
I also trained as a tree surgeon, and I still do some of that. But it’s dangerous work – I don’t use a cherry picker, I climb, and even though you’ve got ropes and a harness, you could easily get stuck. I’ve put my back out already doing that work in the past, so I try to do it less.
I think when we met you said you used to be in the military?
Yes that’s right – we were talking about your piece on stolen valour. I said at the time that most people that served would say wearing military clothing was fine, as long as you weren’t actually pretending to be something you’re not.
Yes, and that was definitely borne out in the comments. How long did you serve for?
I trained for eight years but was never deployed, and by the end of it I was getting pretty frustrated. I was thinking of training to be an Apache helicopter pilot, which is what my Dad did, but that was another four years and in the end I decided to leave.
How did you get into menswear?
I was always a gear guy, into well-made equipment, knives, torches. It felt like a fairly natural step from that into well-made clothing. Mostly workwear, mostly Japanese. I think most things I’m wearing today are Japanese.
I like the white jacket you’re wearing – am I right you said you remade it?
Almost. It was a chore jacket from Portuguese Flannel which I had altered in several ways. The style didn’t quite work on me but I loved the material, so I wanted to save it. I initially took it apart but I had an alterations tailor put it back together again.
What did you change?
I shortened it so the hem sat higher on me, I shortened the sleeves and I took off the two hip pockets. I also removed the collar which I think makes it more adaptable, easier to layer over something like this green submariner.
What I liked about the process was I managed to transform it from something I wasn’t wearing into now one of my favourite pieces.
The jeans look like they have some real heft and drape to them – where are they from?
They’re from Oni, the 200zr which is their widest fit. They’re 20oz with a beige-dyed weft. I really like the uniqueness of the texture, the colour and the rinse. Plus the deerskin patch on the back.
Outfit 2:
We’re doing a ‘Dry January’ focus this month, talking about treasuring good clothes and looking after them. Do you do much of your own repairs and alterations, apart from the changes to the chore jacket?
Yes I’ve always done a lot. What really resonates with me is that by repairing existing clothing you feel a personal connection to the garment, because of the time you’ve spent repairing it and appreciating it – which in turn makes you want to care for it longer.
Also, especially with visible repairs such as sashiko and darning, I feel it gives a uniqueness to the clothing and means it kind of accumulates memories over time.
Do you work in some of the clothes shown here? How are you about looking after them?
I think it’s important to not be overly precious about your clothes. Yes, use them enough to cover the cost per wear and don’t abuse them, but then just look after them well. Maintain them with the correct products, whether that’s a nice leather cream or a delicate detergent, and understand the care labels because incorrect care will ruin clothes.
I think one thing people get hung up on, especially with regards to denim, is the ‘fade culture’. It’s great to give your clothing personality, but over wearing and not washing is just bad practice, you should wash it when it’s dirty. There’s lots of misinformation around caring for clothing but I‘ve always found the best way is to ask the manufacturer directly, or even the business owner, what they recommend.
The point that’s always been engrained into me is take care of your kit and it will take care of you.
I love those Yuketen boots – how long have you had them?
Oh I don’t know, years. Those I do wear for work. They’re on their third pair of laces – the brass eyelets do fray the laces but I’d say each pair has lasted me two years or so. These are from White’s, they seem to make the best boot laces. I got the boots originally on eBay for £100.
Do you buy a lot second-hand?
Yes, window cleaning makes a good living but I buy a lot of things second-hand when I can. I buy from Marrkt, going up to visit the warehouse recently and going through everything they had for example. I buy a fair bit from charity shops, or on Etsy, and get cheaper basics. My belt is a custom job on Etsy – you pick the leather, the hardware, so it’s veg-tan and solid brass.
What do you tend to spend more money on, and less?
I spend less on those basics, like my perforated vest is from M&S – it’s basic but it’s functional, it does the job. I spend more on things like denim, bags, outerwear, where I know they’ll get better with age and where looking after them makes a big difference.
I spend very little on gym gear, on sunglasses (because I lose them). I get Goodyear-welted or stitchdown shoes because I know I can repair them, and I think good cream is worth it so I have Saphir, but just the one colour.
The bag from Charlie Borrow looks like it’s going to age well. Was that a standard design or something you specified?
It was made to order, a custom size. I wanted something small but big enough to fit a bottle of wine or an umbrella. It’s a natural veg-tan leather with brass sandcast hardware and copper rivets – plus interchangeable straps! The black is a heavier duty and perhaps less dressy, but just nice to have the variation. This will have an endless patina.
Outfit 3:
- Shirt – Camp collar from Kardo
- Cardigan – Tender Co
- Belt – Custom order, Etsy
- Trousers – TWC
- Shoes – Paraboot, as above
- Watch – Rolex 2009 submariner
- Rings – “Made by a friend in his shed. Goes by the name Chunk Silver”
You mentioned before how important the ‘community’ of menswear is to you. What did you mean by that exactly?
I just meant that it’s been so enjoyable in the past few years getting to know everyone in different parts of it, and that we should remember what a valuable part of the industry that is.
When you buy from some big brand, you don’t know the founder, you don’t know the maker, you rarely connect with the people in the store. Go into somewhere like Blackhorse Lane and that’s completely different – everyone there is involved with the product, everyone cares about it. And you can visit the factory if you want to as well, see your things actually being made.
You’ve done that at a fair number of places around the country haven’t you?
Yes I’ve tried to make a point of it, whether it’s a Northampton shoe factory or Charlie’s workshop, or visiting someone like Ben at Hang Up Vintage, now in Burnham-on-Crouch. When I can’t repair or alter something I try to take it to a local craftsman that I connect with on a personal level as well, usually a friend in the industry.
It gives you a closer connection to the product and the people, and often we have a lot in common. It’s the same at events, often I’ll find I have more in common with people there than I do when I meet up with old school mates, for example.
One of the reasons I got into crafted menswear was that I wanted to buy good things and not get ripped off. Obviously some of this clothing is very expensive, but you always know what you’re getting for your money – and even more impressively, you often know the person the money is going to.
It’s a great sentiment and you’re right, something we often forget.
In this outfit you’ve got a lot of great pattern and colour going – where are the different pieces from?
The cardigan is from Tender Co, a really cool knitted piece where they transferred the pattern from a vinyl record onto a pop-punch card. The shirt underneath is from Kardo and hand-embroidered, which I love.
The trousers are fro Adam at TWC. It’s a pleated chino-style trouser which resembles, in my opinion, a 1940s deck pant just with a modern smarter look. I like these because they’re quite light and have some little hidden selvedge details. The shoes are a Norwegian storm-welted green suede from Paraboot, on a crepe sole.
Do the tattoos date from your military days?
Yes, and I regret some of them now to be honest. At the time it was something everyone was doing and it felt very natural. I’ve since had some lasered off and I might do that more. Particularly ones that are more on show, such as the hands.
It does go with the look though.
Very true! At least I’m not trying to dress up in a suit and tie for an office job.
Thanks for taking the time to chat Ben, it was refreshing. Look forward to seeing you around at an event soon.
You too Simon.
